RWANDA’S RAISON D’ETRE: MOUNTAIN GORILLAS

“What took us so long?” That was the obvious question upon seeing what this rather smallish country has to offer.  Arguably what most tourists come to the country for is to see the Mountain Gorillas up close via guided trek. But clearly there was so much more to Rwanda, as we arrived following our previous stops in South Africa (see post HERE).

Rwanda is a landlocked country, bordered by Uganda, Tanzania, Burundi, and the Congo.  It is comprised of 14 million people and is one of the most densely populated countries in the world. Agriculture and tourism are the main sources of revenue. But what most impressed me is how scenic it is.  And green!

The people are genuinely happy.  Their circumstances might not be that much better than other African countries, but their outlook certainly is.  The crime rate is very low which says a lot.  It is perfectly safe to walk in the capital city of Kigali day and night.  I was even impressed with Rwandair, the national airline, which we flew from Johannesburg.

Speaking of that, it was quite the synchronized Olympic event during our plane change in J’berg.  The flight from Cape Town on South African Airways was essentially connected to the next flight, but not such that we could check our bags all the way through.

So the duffels that we were required to take on safari in Botswana represented just part of our luggage for this month-long trip.  The traditional suitcases were in storage at the airport’s Intercontinental Hotel where our Africa tour began 12 days earlier. The scenario: get the duffels from flight 1, find out where to get the VAT refund for some purchases, retrieve the stored suitcases, check in for the next flight to Rwanda with all the luggage, exchange the local Rand currency back to US dollars (that required the boarding pass as proof we were leaving the country) and complete the VAT documents.  Yes, it was actually a thing of beauty and some excellent teamwork.

We arrived late to the Hotel Mille Collines, most famous for providing shelter to 1,500 refugees during the 1973 Rwandan genocide. It was a brief overnight until we were off for the Virunga Mountains, home to the Silverback Gorillas. Our base is the Five Volcanoes Boutique Hotel.  Accommodations are different than those of a safari camp, but the protocol is similar meaning up early and off for the reason one visits.

Below, our fabulous driver/guide for our time in Rwanda – first person we saw upon arrival and last person we saw upon departure.  Thank you Gervais!

Besides our trek, we had a chance to visit two outstanding spots — the Kinigi Women Village and the campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund.  The local women (many of whom are single mothers) have a chance to gather and make all sorts of crafts to sell.  It is a wonderful place for camaderie — we loved meeting them and viewing their products. As for the gorilla center, Ellen DeGeneres used her celebrity for a remarkable cause.

Below, among the crafts for sale is this trivet made from used bottle caps and pieces of fabric.  

Ironically, Gorillas in the Mist (starring Sigourney Weaver) was available on one of the flights en route to Rwanda. What a legacy she established. 

All the necessary gear for the trek

We were fortunate to have as our guide Eugene, who has been at it for 27 years. Additionally, we have rangers (4 with big guns) and then porters are hired at the trekker’s discretion.  We hired 2 who guided our every step.  These are local folks wholly dependent on this income, in addition to farming the land on which they live. The farmlands are abundant due to the proximity to the equator.  The housing is best described as “primitive.”

The hubby and I didn’t make it too far until we realized the altitude was problematic.  After consulting Eugene, it was clear we both needed the “helicopter” service — what looked like a rattan canoe with a foam mattress inside (covered with a sheet) and mounted on poles.  Given that we were trekking to an altitude of 9,000 feet straight up in muddy and slippery terrain, the $200 per helicopter round trip was not even a consideration.  We absolutely would not have made it otherwise.

Our optimistic beginning on foot 

Followed by our “transportation” not long after

Eugene indicated our group was assigned to see a family of 20 gorillas (large by comparison).  The rangers find where the family is and communicate back to Eugene and then we’re all together.  Eugene gave us a briefing just before we began our hour of being with the gorillas.  Instruction included keeping our masks on (protecting them and us); what to do if they approach; what their various sounds mean including chest beating; and so on.

Below,, Eugene (center) giving us final instructions

Then there they were.  I mean right there.  At times, some walked right by within arm’s reach (no touching of course).  Lots of eye contact. And just an incredible sight to behold.

In answer to the most asked question: “How close did you get?” Pretty darn close

We were then drenched in rain for the return trip down.  I believe the hubby sang a chorus of “Singin’ in the Rain” even though none of the porters had a clue.  But it was great fun and a win/win — we truly could not have done it without them and we in turn tipped generously (so said our driver), leaving with the best memories created.

Sharp left turn ahead for Bruce and his crew

Thankful for this amazing village!  

For our last night, we recovered enough to have a splendid overnight and Mother’s Day dinner at Hemingway’s Retreat back in Kigali prior to departing.   

And then we were off to Nairobi, Kenya — our fourth and last country in Africa.

En route back to Kigali for our last night

The stunning view from the Virunga Mountains prior to our trek